Můj první den v Ras Al Khaimah
Pokud se celý profesní život věnujete destinacím mimo Blízký východ, je možné a teoreticky i dost pravděpodobné, že tímto směrem budete cestovat s většími či menšími předsudky – a očekáváními. Stejně jsem to měl i já, než jsem poprvé vytáhl paty mimo hotel.
Moje tehdejší kolegyně mi zajistila průvodce na dopolední a odpolední program s tím, že na oběd se setkáme v jednom z partnerských hotelů. Takže chvilku po deváté svítí na venkovním teploměru 22 °C (je leden) a já si sedám do vozu. Když jsem byl na cestě do SAE, moje představa hodně vycházela z filmů a propagačních materiálů, takže jsem byl ve výsledku trochu zklamán, že na silnici nás nemíjí jeden supersport za druhým, ale občas lze vidět i zajímavý kousek. Za zmínku stojí ovšem systém registračních značek, nejenže poznáte, kdo je odkud (z jakého emirátu), ale podle čísla zjistíte i to, zda vás náhodou nemíjí vůz z vozového parku královské rodiny. Tato auta (a auta některých hodně bohatých Emirátčanů) mají jednociferná nebo maximálně dvouciferná čísla. Tři číslice značí, že stále ještě máte dost peněz…no a čtyři nebo pět už má zbytek vozů (i když, výjimky se najdou, protože ona ta kratší čísla jsou mnohonásobně dražší na pořízení – prý takové číslo může stát víc, než stála vaše nová raketa na kolech:-D). Během svých vyjížděk po Ras Al Khaimah jsem viděl jedno až trojciferných značek tolik, že bych je dokázal spočítat na prstech i jen jedné ruky…zbytek aut v provozu jsou úplně běžné modely, které potkáme i u nás.
Během přesunu mi řidič vypráví trochu o historii – dějiny Ras Al Khaimah sahají více než 7000 lety nazpět. Dříve byl tento emirát s nádhernou krajinou, úchvatným pobřežím a bohatými terakotovými pouštními pláněmi i jedním ze středobodů lovu perel a obchodu s nimi. Míříme totiž na místní perlovou farmu, takže se tento výklad krásně hodí. Lovení perel a obchodování s nimi bylo kdysi životním zdrojem místní komunity a hlavním zdrojem bohatství země. Dnešní rodinná farma Suwaidi Pearls je tak zároveň oknem do bohaté kulturní historie emirátu Ras Al Khaimah.
Tato perlová farma, nacházející se na úpatí rozlehlého pohoří Al Hajar v severním městě Al Rams, je jedinou svého druhu v regionu a nabízí pohled na jedinečnou tradici a ekonomickou aktivitu v minulosti. Když se ohlédnu zpět, je prohlídka perlové farmy podle mě jednou z nejlepších atraktivit v Ras Al Khaimah. Když dnes píši tento text, tak už jsem tam byl třikrát a pokaždé to byl zážitek – a pokud se vám poštěstí, že prohlídku a představení farmy převezme přímo pan majitel, nebude se vám chtít pryč.
Exkurze je zajímavá hned od začátku, kdy návštěvníci nastupují na tradiční loď lovců perel, aby se dostali z přístavu na perlovou farmu, která se nachází mezi mangrovníky – a když je dost vody pod kýlem, proveze vás kapitán i mezi nimi. A když budete mít i štěstí na sezonu, můžete si fotit z lodi i plameňáky. Speciální prohlídková trasa pomáhá návštěvníkům seznámit se s historickým významem lovení perel a nahlédnutím do života lovců perel, po němž následuje pohled do procesu „kultivovaných“ perel v současné době. Vrcholem prohlídky perlové farmy je řada aktivit, včetně zážitku z otevírání ústřic (najděte svou perlorodku), předvedení různých typů perel a když si to předem domluvíte, můžete se k nim i potápět.
Plný zážitků odjíždím zhruba po 2,5 hodinách na oběd. V italské restauraci hotelu DoubleTree na ostrově Al Marjan jsem se poprvé seznámil s onou otevřeností emirátu Ras Al Khaimah – stačí totiž otevřít jídelní a nápojový lístek a vůbec vám nepřijde, že se nacházíte mimo Evropu. Vepřová šunka, pivo, víno, destiláty…ano, potřebujete zvláštní povolení a musíte zachovávat přísná hygienická nařízení, ale pokud máte restauraci v tomto emirátu, nemusíte své hosty omezovat. Ovšem nic není zdarma, takže samozřejmě budete muset jako host sáhnout i o něco hlouběji do kapsy, pokud si chcete dopřávat jako doma.
Jelikož se nám oběd trochu protáhl a slunce zde zapadá o něco dříve, než jsme zvyklí doma, přehazuji návštěvu hor na další den a jen rychle se jedu podívat na dvě golfová hřiště, která zde mají. Ve vnitrozemí se jedná o hřiště Tower Links, které je považováno za nejpřirozenější golfové hřiště v celých Emirátech, přičemž až 11 z 18 jamek se vlní kolem mangrovových mokřadů. Což je na jednu stranu krásné, ale na druhou stranu představuje velké golfové výzvy a testování úrovně dovedností každého hráče. Druhým hřištěm je Al Hamra – toto hřiště nabízí osmnáct jamek a nádherný výhled na záliv. V posledních letech se zde několikrát hrály i turnaje European Challenge Tour, přičemž v roce 2018 zde proběhl i finálový turnaj této série. Navíc se v bezprostřední blízkosti nachází hned několik vynikajících hotelů, takže se nemusíte nikam plahočit s bagem – a když bude volno, můžete si za umělého osvětlení zahrát i po západu slunce.
Slunce zapadlo a já odjíždím zpět na hotel – zatím se mi v Ras Al Khaimah moc líbí. A jedna věc mě zaujala – úroveň služeb a chování personálu je nad moje očekávání. Ale k tomu se dostanu zase někdy příště…
Text a foto Karel Zelený
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